all roads lead to 小七

哈囉～ sorry i couldn't update more frequently this summer but i was super busy exploring different parts of taiwan, so here it is all at once!

國立故宮博物院 (national palace museum)

to start off break, i took a solo trip out to the northern branch of the national palace museum (we had gone to the southern branch when we first got here on the tainan trip). there were three floors of exhibits with approximately four exhibits per floor, so naturally, i spent all day there. it is a beautiful building with gardens surrounding it.

one of my favorite exhibits was about snuff bottles which were used to hold powdered tobacco during the qing dynasty. the bottles are really small but incredibly ornate – some even were painted from the inside. they were also made from a variety of materials, amber, porcelain, glass, etc.

another fun one was called "hide-and-seek insects" featuring 草蟲 (grass-and-insect) art and the title cards would provide the chinese terms for all of the included bugs, so i got a nice vocab lesson haha.

other exhibits included bronze artifacts, jade pieces, imperial porcelain and painted enamels, scrolls, 多寶槅 (curio cabinets), Buddha, and scenes from the qing palace to name a few.

summer trip

小七 (7-11) really was the backbone of this trip. each time we moved, first thing was find the closest 7. when we were out too, 7 was the go-to place for AC, hydration, snacks, you name it. we're thinking we might need to make shirts that say "all roads lead to 小七"...

澎湖 (pénghú)

our first stop was five days on the main island of 澎湖 off the southwest coast of taiwan. we couldn't have pick a better time to go. the sun was shining everyday and it was exactly what i had envisioned: exploring the island on day two and four with beaches the rest of the time.

day one: getting oriented

the time between buses was much longer here and since we're so used to the city, we made the mistake of heading out too early and having to wait at the stop for an absurd amount of time. we did eventually make it to 山水沙灘 (shanshui beach) on the south end of the island for the day. because taiwanese don't like sunbathing and tanning, we had the beach to ourselves for most of the day. the locals tend to come out after the worst of the heat and sun is starting to set. a funny note here is that the architecture of the nearby buildings don't match at all – like multiple developers bought the shoreline and had different visions.

day two: exploring downtown 馬公 (magong)

we started off at 順承門 (shuncheng gate) which led into 篤行十村 (duxingshi village) where i got some major ghibli vibes with the nature kind of taking over parts of the old village. after a snack at a cute café, off we went to 天后宮 (tianhou temple).

by that time, the cactus ice cream place was open. i had heard penghu was known for the cactus ice cream so of course we had to try it. we soon found out cactus drinks and desserts were all over the island.

in search of lunch, we headed down 中央老街 (zhongyang old street). as with all 老街s, it was lined with shops and food stalls. we settled on a place with cute dogs and we ended up with a whole feast.

before heading to the waterside park for sunset, we checked out yet another temple 北辰宮 (beichen temple).

to close out the night, we accidentally had a five-course meal, cocktails and made friends with the bartender. so what had happened was that we picked the dinner place earlier in day based on google. when we got there, they informed us that the menu was pre-decided and since we didn't have reservations, we would have to sit at the bar. since most other places were closed by then, we were game. it turned out to be a fantastic dinner of caprese salad, bread with an eggplant and beef spread, mushroom risotto, steak and housemade cakes. i also got a cactus cocktail with a garnish that was torched in front of us. not to mention we had a nice chat with the bartender who is the same age as me. he is a music teacher (ukelele and something else) by day and a bartender by night.

day three: problem-solving

this day started off with somebody realizing they had lost their student ID which also acts as our transportation card. since they had a gut feeling as to where it was, we retraced part of the day before – no dice. backup plan was grabbing a new transportation card at 7 (see, they do everything there) and just dealing with paperwork when we got back. then we spent the rest of the day at 林投海灘 (lintou beach). this beach wasn’t great for swimming because of rocks and coral but perfect for seaglass and shells.

day four: north end of the island

the day before we had asked our airbnb host to help us organize a taxi to take us north. our understanding was that they’d just take us to the banyan tree, but there was a (good) misunderstanding where the the host had actually organized a taxi for the whole day which means we got to see way more up north and got AC between stops. the taxi lady was so nice and introduced us to each spot as well as the best parts (mostly food related). first was 波浪海堤 (wave seawalls). on our way to the 通樑古榕 (tongliang great banyan), she explained to us the walls we were seeing around town were made of coral and for the purpose of protecting gardens and such from winds during storms. she also randomly pulled over to show us a plant whose seeds are black with white heart shapes on them.

next was 二崁聚落保存區 (erkan historic village) which had the most beautiful tile and great overall vibes.

then it was time for the famous basalt columns that were excavated during the japanese occupation 池東大菓葉玄武岩. it is really popular with photographers so compared to photos, i was kind of surprised at the size. i honestly thought it was both longer and taller – still cool nonetheless.

we also went to 外垵漁港觀景台 (waian fishing port observation deck), 漁翁島燈塔 (yuwengdao lighthouse), 池西虎目滬 (single heart fishing weir) and 鯨魚洞 (whale cave). that night we caught sunset from out airbnb balcony.

day five: smoother version of day one

we went back to 山水沙灘 (shanshui beach) for the day and 雪冰 as our last penghu treat.

高雄 (kaohsiung)

the next morning we flew out of 澎湖 (penghu) got into 高雄 (kaohsiung) around midday and did some housekeeping like laundry and such before heading out to see the night life. kaohsiung has an MRT but not at all as extensive as 台北 (taipei’s). either way it was nice to have the convenience again. we took it down south a couple of stops to 光之穹頂 (dome of light) which is actually a part of the station. the art is truly amazing detailing water, fire, earth and the cosmos? our other destination for the night was 六合夜市 (liuhe night market). we had heard there was snake and we were so ready to try it but sadly that stand isn’t there anymore. it’s ok though because we got other snacks like shrimp omelettes and taiwanese sausage plus fresh squeezed juices. when we got back to the station, they were projecting scenes onto the floor in the dome of light (i guess it happens on the hour at night).

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佛光山佛陀紀念館 (Fo Guang Shan Buddha Memorial Hall)

the next day was a museum day. we went to the famous 佛光山佛陀紀念館 (Fo Guang Shan Buddha Memorial Hall) surrounding monastery and museum. there are eight pagodas leading up to the main exhibition hall with smaller exhibitions or shops. the volunteers here were so engaging, particularly the one who first welcomed us. she gave us so much information and loved to hear we were exchange students. another pagoda showcased 星雲 (xīng yún) or Venerable Master Hsing Yun’s unique one-stroke calligraphy which he created himself due to his failing sight – if he lifted the brush, he wouldn’t have known where to start again. along the side walls there were carvings of Buddha and his interactions with different people. Usually, a person does something bad and Buddha shows them the way, and the person becomes his disciple, though one depicts him teaching his mom. these carvings were interspersed with carvings of calligraphy. the first exhibition in the main hall explained the underground palaces which were kind of like pyramids of China (in terms of use that is). another described Buddhist holidays which were often different Buddha’s birthdays, but most of the museum were about the place itself and its founder (Venerable Master Hsing Yun’s) life. his mom actually told him not to practice when he was young but he had made a promise to a master and so he kept with it. besides the obvious architectural beauty of the place, it was also spiritually beautiful and mindful. they had various shrines and places of worship with Buddha in all of his depictions (South Asian, East Asian, multiple hands, etc). photos were not allowed in any of the shrines because it’s not for tourism, but wow you need to see it once in your life. the most impactful was the Jade Shrine. it was the largest of the shrines. before entering, we took off shoes and left our things on shelves then took the stairs down where were met by monks. every monk i encountered was so genuinely interested in our stories and also open. one led us in praying to the reclining Buddha sculpted from Burmese white jade. we repeat the saying three times and then bow deeply. since it was verbally transmitted, i can’t write it out and be sure. on either side of the reclining Buddha, there were others, one focusing on medicine and health. and on the other walls of the shrine, there were the most beautiful carvings i have ever seen. they were just their natural color, but the sheer size, depth and intricacy was breathtaking. as i don’t affiliate with any religion, being in that holy of an environment was a little intimidating. i definitely think i put good energy in to the world, i just really didn’t want to disrespect the monks and least of all Buddha. i can’t lie. places like this have insane power and atmosphere. this was a day of listening and observing for sure.

左營蓮池潭 (zuoying lotus pond) aka the one with all the temples and pagodas

we started off at the north end of the pond at 文昌祠 (wenchang temple) where we stumbled upon a “fashion show” of sorts for traditional clothing. then moving counter-clockwise around the pond we saw the 北極亭牌樓 (arctic pavilion archway) to 元帝廟 (yuandi temple). the walkway leading up to the temple was stunning with all of the guardians on different animals and atop intricate carvings. but what really stunned me was the inside of this temple. every inch inside was painted – each panel showing its own story.

moving on we arrived at 春秋御閣 (the spring and autumn pavilions), 五里亭 (wuliting) and 觀音騎龍像 (Avalokitesvara riding a dragon statue). Avalokitesvara is a bodhisattva and embodies the compassion of all Buddhas. here we could actually walk through the dragon and the inside was also beautifully carved and painted.

nearing the south end of the pond, we see perhaps the most famous of these lotus pond temples/pagodas, 龍虎塔 (the dragon and tiger pagodas). unfortunately the inside was closed, but the outside was still a sight to see. i should note, the general rule is enter dragon exit tiger because it is auspicious. NEVER enter through the middle if there is an entrance there (it is usually blocked off). this goes for all temples. the middle is for immortals/gods. also smaller temples do have a dragon/tiger side. just take a look at some of my other temple photos from before. they’re not as noticeable as this one but they’re there.

last but not least was 高雄左營孔子廟 (kaohsiung zuoying Confucius temple) back on the north end

阿里山 (alishan)

the next morning we packed up for our first high speed train ride of the trip. it made the trip from kaohsiung to chiayi only 30ish minutes. then we took a taxi up the mountain which was around 3hrs thanks to the narrow winding roads. near the base of the mountain, the foliage was much more tropical but as we went up, bamboo and Formosan red cypress started popping up. once we got all settled in the hotel, dinner and then straight to sleep for 3am wake up the next day.

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the whole reason i wanted to go to alishan in the first place was for the sunrise. wake up was around 3am for a 4am train to the viewing platform. unfortunately our timing for this was a little off in two ways: 1, the last station where the best viewing platform is was closed so we had to hike the rest of the way from the second-to-last stop 2, a big, dark cloud decided to be mean that morning and sit right in front of the sun. we still got a beautiful sky thanks to reflecting light but not necessarily what i was hoping for. i did see a monkey though which was cool.

then we went back to bed for a good couple of hours before waking up for curry lunch and alishan’s famous 烏龍茶 (oolong tea). the tea place we picked was amazing for both the tea and the people. a lady and someone she referred to as 老闆 (boss) greeted us and said a tasting session would cost 180NTD. they started with brewing us some oolong tea followed by 紅茶 (black tea). we were kind of seated bar style at the counter and we had a great conversation with the two workers. they wanted to hear about us and loved that we were exchange students. one even practiced some korean with my korean friend. they also enthusiastically explained the different ways to prepare the teas if we were to get some. we all got oolong and the lady explained the dog on the bag was her own and showed us pictures. and then she kept referring to the oolong as 「狗」”dog” (ex. “另外一隻狗/another dog” when we wanted another bag of oolong.) when we finished, the 老闆 (boss) told us the tasting was on the house and we only had to pay for our tea bags, which prompted the lady to say we could afford more 狗 (dogs) haha.

the next day we walked through the forest boardwalks. they have many of the giant Formosan red cypress marked. as we were out, the clouds rolled in and since we were so high up, we just kind of sat in the mist. it was very PNW with the clouds, way lower temperatures and trees all around. the only thing we didn’t really like was what we think to be altitude sickness. i mean we hit +7,000ft in less than a day so…oops. i did have a killer bowl of 牛肉麵 (beef noodle soup) though.

coming down the mountain was interesting as the clouds were in and the visibility was so poor. add the windy, narrow roads to that and well let's just say some of us were more stressed than others. guess which one i was...

台中 (taichung)

our time in 台中 was a little chaotic. a lot of our plans didn’t end up working out because they all decided to go under maintenance just to irritate us it seems. day one we had planned to go to 台中文化創意產業園區 (culture and creative industry park) but ended up in a cool market before swerving to see 臺中公園 (taichung park). in the pond there were a lot of koi and turtles. there are also a lot of riverwalks in taichung.

in search of a cold treat in the hot august sun we went to Miyahara (a famous dessert shop). i am absolutely in love with the aesthetic and the desserts are so good. i definitely need to come back and maybe if i time it right, i can get some of the treats home to WA.

later that day, i accompanied one of my friends to a big mall for roller skating. he’s one of those really (maybe too) humble people who are like “i’m afraid i forgot how” and then proceeds to skate backwards. anyway, the mall is the biggest one i’ve ever been in for sure. on the way, we ran into some cool sculptures at the train station. they also kept some of the old tracks and cars for photo ops.

the next day also went off book. we had planned to go to 彩虹眷村 (rainbow village) but it was closed for maintenance. a guy started painting the area so that it wouldn’t get torn down and now it’s perhaps the most famous attraction in taichung. after checking out a temple nearby, we bused back into town for 計新村 (shenji new village) which is absolutely charming. they were setting up for a market down the main road when we got there. while we were waiting for the market to get into full swing, we grabbed some soufflé pancakes.

after checking out the shops, stands and enjoying the live music for a while we headed out in search of the original boba milk tea shop, 春水堂四維創始店 (chun shui tang si wei original store). we all just got milk tea and good thing too because the medium was gigantic. not to mention two of us are maybe a little lactose intolerant, but i just had to have it as intended. while there, we started playing the one line drawing game where one person draws a random line and the others need to use that line in the doodle. you’d be surprised how long that had us entertained for – we actually continued when we got back to the airbnb too.

the next day, was an unplanned day and since a lot of our plans fell through in taichung, a bit of an exploration day. i wanted to check out Dali Art Plaza. they’ve got sculptures outside in the park, around the business park and also a gallery. the characters are pretty entertaining. they also had KAWS’ blue BFF as well as screenprints of Andy Warhol’s $, Scream, Mao and Marilyn Monroe.

the bus stop for the art plaza was right by the library, so we checked that out too. i picked up a couple of books and i was pleasantly surprised at the amount i can understand. i’ll have to try more fiction because in class we only get nonfiction, research or literary chinese.

i’m glad we ended the trip when we did. two and half weeks of nonstop action was a lot and we were tired. to be completely honest, i am feeling really antisocial now haha.

random things i wanted to mention but seemed weird putting above:

• airport security was so insanely quick. it took me longer to take out my electronics than the actual security check itself

• people start arriving at the gate with only like 10mins to spare (at TSA songshan airport at least)

• some places use different romanization systems for chinese and this one (i think it's tongyong pinyin) specifically hurts since i am used to hanyu pinyin. i know they all have pros/cons but hanyu pinyin is top tier

• a random person asked me and my friend if we were "ABC". i just thought it funny bc i’ve never heard that term outside of the US

• kaohsiung and sometimes taipei’s rain is acid rain thanks to air pollution. you can tell because you get itchy especially around the bug bites you already have 😢

• up at the alishan sunrise viewing platforms, there are food stalls all ready for hungry sunrise goers

• taichung seemed to have more young people out and about everywhere. in taipei, young people tend to stick to specific districts/areas

• different places' garbage trucks have different songs and come at different times. in our area of taipei 7pm, but in alishan there was a morning 8am-ish and noonish one

• in between the cities, a lot of land is for farming, at least from what i could see on the high speed train

if you got this far, thanks for reading to the end. ’til next time

♡蘇晨